BERGAMO (Northern Italy): A fun choice for family friendly summer break with autistic kids.
- sunshinelayla
- Jan 26
- 10 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Only an hour's drive from Milan's Linate airport - Bergamo's old town, the Citta Alta, is a UNESCO listed medieval hilltop. A stay within its 16th century Venetian walls offers a great short break for autistic families willing to think outside the box.
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Why Bergamo / The Citta Alta / Food Scene / Renaissance History / Day Trips
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SIRMIONE, Lake Garda: How to visit Italy's most beautiful town with autistic kids
Why did we take our autistic children to Bergamo?
Bergamo is a town of two halves, its modern commercial centre situated at the base of the hill and at the top, a 4700-hectare green area surrounded by Venetia Walls - the Citta Alta - its historic heart. I cant remember exactly why we decided to book a summer break in Bergamo. I think it was a lucky combination of some idyllic WhatsApp photos of friends on an Italian Lake the previous summer, a desire for authentic gelato and a well-timed flash sale on the BA website. Whatever the reason, once the seed of the idea had been planted J was as keen as I was to visit Italy's Lombardy region and explore the foothills of the alps.
We also hoped to indulge in a little of the dolce vita I had always imagined belonged to the Northern Italian Lakes. After extensive research, and having fallen in love with the picturesque village of Sirmione, I settled on Lake Garda as the most family friendly of the lakes. With our budget in mind we agreed to spend the first 4 nights in Bergamo (as the cheaper of the two places) and the remaining 3 nights in a restored monastery a few miles inland from Lake Garda.
As the details fell into place and the time for our flights grew near I got my pre-holiday nerves. Had I made the right decision - was this the right holiday for our autistic boys? I was hoping our trip to the Italian Lakes would be interesting for J and I but not too ambitious for the boys, sensory friendly for them but relaxing for us, scenic despite the tourists and with the space for us all to enjoy some truly memorable moments as a family.
So did our trip to Bergamo deliver? Read on to find out!
What our autistic family enjoyed about staying in Bergamo's Old Town:
EXPLORING BERGAMO'S CITTA ALTA WITHOUT CROWDS
Bergamo's old town, or Citta Alta, is nestled atop a hill overlooking Bergamo's more modern new town. You can reach it by car or bus, but most tourists park up in the new town and then arrive on foot via the city's funicular. The Citta Alta is dominated by its large duomo and main square, with a small number of roads lined with cafes, artisan shops and restaurants.
While Bergamo is a hugely popular day trip from the larger cities of Brescia and Milan, the limited accommodation options in the Citta Alta mean that surprisingly few people actually stay overnight. For those that do, the stunning architecture and picturesque lanes is theirs to explore until the day trippers arrive, normally around 10.30am.
These mornings were our favourites times of the day, when the café owners were just opening up and had time for a joke or a chat, the churches were quiet and there was space to simply sit and be and there were no queues for the famous Bergamo focaccia (see below)!
Day tourists rarely venture far from the main square, so even during the early evening bustle it is possible to discover places of stillness. Adventurous visitors who are happy to explore Bergamo's side streets will be rewarded with a treasure trove of shaded quiet squares, ornate fountains and hole-in-the-wall bars. Offering crystal clear water for drinking and the chance to wash your hands and face these little pockets of tranquillity were the perfect place to enjoy our post lunch / pre dinner dinner gelatos!
A VIBRANT LOCAL FOOD SCENE
If you are a family that like Italian food then the choices in Bergamo's Citta Alta will not disappoint.
FOCACCIA HEAVEN
Bergamo is known for a special type of focaccia, thick and spongy and topped with fresh pizza fillings which are then grilled and served hot. Its considered a street food snack, and the most famous place to try it is from a cafe called Il Fornaio.
My husband and eldest son absolutely loved these focaccias and the incredible array of toppings to choose from. Il Fornaio even offered a plain cheese gluten free one - which was a nice gesture.
GELATO DREAMS
Bergamo's old town has affordable gelaterias on every corner (around 3 euro for 2 scoops), all filled with the most wonderfully coloured, shiny creamy mountains of pure deliciousness. And the flavours, such tantalising flavours!
As ice-cream afficionados, my son and I were in heaven. However we knew if we started with our favourites (pistachio for me, chocolate for him) we'd never end up trying anything else so we made a deal.
We both had to be brave and try at least 5 other gelato flavours before we could have a chocolate or pistachio!
Which was how my eldest and I found ourselves on the second evening, sitting on a bench in front of Gelateria Cherubino tucking into an incredible double pot of peach and stracciatella gelato. As Stracciatella, a vanilla ice-cream with chocolate shavings was invented in Bergamo, it seemed the best place to start!
As we relaxed in the early evening warmth the soft notes of a violin floated across the picturesque square - Piazza Mascheroni - and blended with the gentle laughter and clinking glasses of tourists enjoying Aperitivo. Over the next 6 days my son and I managed to work our way through an impressive 12 different flavours of gelato including watermelon, raspberry ripple, lemon cheesecake, double chocolate, mascarpone, pistachio, salted caramel and nectarine. It was a brilliant mission to set, relatively inexpensive and one we both really enjoyed. I'm usually quite boring with dessert flavours but I was determined to set a brave example!
APERITIVO
Aperitivo is one of my favourite Italian customs and traditionally involves the serving of nibbles like olives, nuts, cheeses, cured meats, mini pizzas, focaccia with alcoholic drinks during the early evening before dinner, normally 6 - 8pm.
DELICATESSANS & WINE....
The Lombardy region also has its own deli specialties, most notably taleggio, salame nostrano (ham), and pancetta bergamasca (bacon). These, along with an array of other local cheeses, the most incredibly fresh peaches and nectarines and bottles of the region's primary white wine - Trebbiano chardonnay - were all available to buy from the small independent shops surrounding the main duomo square.
We rarely take the boys into restaurants in the evening (far too much pressure for everyone) so each day we visited the little green grocer just up from the apartment where we purchased mountains of the most delicious fresh fruit as well as plump fragrant tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers and more than a few bottles of a rather fine (and inexpensive!) montepulciano from central Italy. Fresh ham and cheese, my favourite arancini (saffron infused stuffed risotto balls) alongside a selection of pre-prepared Italian salads from the numerous deli's and dinner was served. Lunch was, predictably pizza - but gosh it was good.
ITS RENAISSANCE HISTORY AND MEDIEVAL CHURCHES
CAMPANONE TORRE CIVICA (Civic Bell Tower)
As you may have gathered from other posts, our family can never resist climbing a tower, and the Campanone in the middle of the Old Town in the Piazza Vecchia was no exception. Built sometime between the 11th and 12 centuries by the powerful Suardi family, its potted history has seen it used as a hospice and once even the city's prison.
We got there early so were first through the doors, and in our enthusiasm did not realise we could take a lift, so took the stairs all the way to the top - 52 m high!
The views from the top were brilliant and gave a fantastic panoramic view of Bergamo, the Duomo and the nearby alps. We spent a lot longer than we had thought we would taking it all in from the two different levels - there really was lots to see and we had a great time. There is also a museum on the ground floor which I thought looked fascinating but the boys were not interested so we gave it a miss!
Its bell system (the campanone is the largest in Lombardy) was installed in mid 1300's as a way of marking time and to warn the population in times of emergency.
If you do decide to stay in the old town then listen out at 10pm, as each night the tower's bells chime 100 times - a tradition dating back to the time of the Venetian Republic when inhabitants were warned that the doors through the city walls were about to close.
BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE
Built in the second half of the 12th century, it is believed that the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore was built to fulfil a vow made to the Madonna in 1133 by the people of Bergamo to protect Bergamo from the plague which was ravaging northern Italy. It is considered to be one of Bergamo's most beautiful and majestic churches.
We visited the Basilica early one morning, before the tour groups arrived. In contrast to its rather plain Romanesque exterior the inside was richly decorated with gold, frescoes and marble sculptures. The early hour meant we had the church to ourselves, and I really enjoyed the chance to sit briefly in the silence and admire the incredible artworks on display. J had less fun however, he spent most of his time chasing around after our youngest who found the acoustics, patterns and colours quite stimulating. The church officers were pretty nice though, and J to it, even when the little one was sitting on a red velvet chair near the altar which had a sign on the floor that clearly said keep off!
If you only have time to visit one church, then make it this one and go early to avoid the crowds!
CHIESA DI SANT'AGATA NEL CARMINE
Opposite our apartment was the Chiesa di Sant'Agata nel Carmine (The Church of Saint Agatha) The cult of St Agatha, a lady who brings gifts to children on the 13th December came to Bergamo from Sicily, however in 1799 the church was absorbed by the nearby Carmelite convent, thus the addition of nel Carmine. We popped in early one morning and had the church to ourselves.
It was rather lovely inside - lots of beautiful Baroque detailing, colourful altarpieces, impressive religious paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries and a black and white geometric floor which my eldest thought was brilliant. The church has a single nave, with five chapels on each side: among these, the most important and imposing is the chapel dedicated to the Madonna del Carmine, which houses a precious Baroque altar by the famous architect Filippo Juvarra.
BERGAMO DUOMO
Bergamo's catholic cathedral in the Old Town is dedicated to Saint Alexander, and is also known as the Cathedral of Sant'Alessandro. It is situated along the edge of same Piazza as the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. We didn't have time to visit it, so I cant comment on its interior.
IT IS THE PERFECT LOCATON FOR GREAT DAY TRIPS
The main sights of Bergamo's old town can be reliably discovered across the course of a day, and there is much to enjoy simply strolling its streets, enjoying the gelato, window shopping and enjoying the architecture.
However if you enjoy getting out and about then Bergamo is perfectly located. Many of the region's most beautiful destinations are within a 75 minute drive. The roads, like most of Europe comprise a blend of tolls and free to use, or you could choose to opt for the public transport system which is cheap and reliable.
Approximate journey times from Bergamo's Old Town in August (not including the bank holidays):
San Pellegrino - 40 mins
Set high in the mountains by a crystal clear river, the spa resort of San Pellegrino is famous for its bubbly water and flavoured drinks which are still made in the factory on the edge of town.
We really enjoyed our afternoon here and would recommend for families with autistic kids as a low-key, low stimulating day trip option from Bergamo.
Lake Iseo - 50 mins (Great for autistic kids)
This is another fantastic day trip option, we enjoyed it so much we went twice to the main Lido to swim and play on the shores of the lake.
Lake Iseo definitely makes a great choice for families with autistic kids who are looking for some gentle water sport fun.
Sirmione on Lake Garda - 1 hr 15
A visit to Sirmione with its medieval castle and cobblestone streets is definitely in day trip territory. Its location, jutting out into the water from the shore of Lake Garda offers stunning scenery and the chance to visit one of Northern Italy's most famous lakes. It is close to the notable wine region of Valpolicella so you could combine your trip with a vineyard tasting or tow. We actually spent three nights a few miles inland of Lake Garda (as the second half of our 7 day trip) and found plenty to enjoy.
Brescia - 50 mins
We didnt have time to visit on this trip, but Brescia offers UNESCO-listed Roman ruins, along with medieval and Renaissance architecture (such as the impressive Castle on Cidneo Hill) and fewer crowds of tourists.
Milan Central - 1 hr
We didn't visit Milan on this trip with the boys. I have been before and neither of us were keen to inflict a big bustling city on the boys during the summer when the tourist crowds pack its streets. However it is only an hour from Bergamo, and if you are keen to visit its famous Gothic cathedral in the Piazza Duomo, enjoy great coffee in the impressive Galleria Shopping Arcade (with its bull mosaic) or stop by the La Scala opera house then it is certainly possible!
Cremona - 1 hr 15
On our drive from Bergamo to Lake Garda we decided to stop in Cremona for lunch. It was absolutely beautiful, and depending on your interests could make a quirky day trip option or a great stop off between Bologna and Milan. It is home to the Violin Museum (Stradivari had his workshop in the city), has a beautiful cathedral and bell tower, and some interesting civil museums.
Final thoughts on taking our autistic kids to Bergamo
As a family we really loved our stay in Bergamo, and had a brilliant time exploring the old town and indulging in all the wonderful food.
However it was August, and it was hot, so hot! For some reason I had thought that northern Italy would be cooler than it was. The unrelenting heat took us all by surprise, made worse by the fact that we didnt have proper air-conditioning (only fans, ouch!).
We also didn't find any outdoor play spaces in the Citta Alta and the heat meant the playground in the modern centre was too far. While they did enjoy cooling off in the fountains around the main Piazza Vecchia, I think the kids did feel a bit cooped up when we were in the apartment, particularly as it was so warm inside. We tried to counter this by taking them out on full day trips, with lots of space to run, play and swim, so it wasn't the end of the world.
Despite this, there was plenty to do and see and I would recommend Bergamo for autistic families as either a day trip, or quirky 2 - 3 night break, if only for the icecream!
